Komodo & Maumere Sept 2019

Komodo & Maumere with a good friend

After a quick dash back to the UK to celebrate my Dad’s 70th birthday it was now time for Komodo and Maumere.

Unfortunately I brought more than a new dive light and English chocolate away with me when I left the UK as I arrived in Komodo with sinus and congestion which is just what you need when you have a week of liveaboard diving in front of you!

I was excited to meet up with my whale man! The one and only Duncan Murrell who had won this trip from a devil ray photo submission and was kind enough to invite me along on this trip.

The planning and communication on this had been quite poor and with only 2 days before I left for the trip was I informed that the boat will not be returning to the original port in Labuan Bajo instead a place called Maumere..... great!

I arrive in Labuan Bajo and again confronted with an array of taxi drivers.... who shall it be.... he’ll do! Bags all loaded in the taxi and off we go on our 7 min journey.... just before the hotel there was a steep unfinished road, and the 15 year old tires of the taxi can’t hold the road so off we go over the edge.....it’s gonna be a trip to remember

The morning of the pick up comes and I have no idea what time I’m being collected if at all, time ticks by and after many unsuccessful attempts to contact someone which also included mind power and smoke signals it looked like I had been forgotten, check out time comes and I’m just about to be made homeless when the hotel remembers that someone called to say they would collect me at 11:30..... the hotel didn’t think it was important enough to relay the message...

Anyway I’m picked up and now on the boat! Not the best I had been on but was clean and comfortable and I paid single supplement so I knew the tiny cabin was all mine!

I meet with Duncan, and he was identical to how I left him in Raja Ampat, full of life and adventure! It was also going to be his 66th birthday in 2 days! This man has the energy and enthusiasm of a 21 year old! I left my 70 year old dad who can hardly do his shoelaces up to Duncan who had just spent weeks kayaking! Evidence that working and slogging your guts out everyday is not better than living and being free!

After the greetings and hugs it was time to lay claim to space in the cramped camera room! It’s funny because everyone watches everyone else get there gear out, trying not to feel intimated that someone has a bigger rig or may know more, luckily on this trip only 3 photographers and all were great and of course the GoPro man!

Camera all set up and now time for dive gear. I worked with Duncan to get him set up and bought him a pointer, Duncan still only open water trained and the only non-nitrox Diver on the boat.... I already know the 18m will be exceeded.... little did I know Duncan would do a quick tech dive ;-)

Try out dive all done, everything good, we are all set for the morning dive.... or so I thought..

So, let’s put a few things into context.. I have over 3000 dives, over 13 years, in all conditions and temperatures, I have more certifications than the new Thai King, to add to that Trimix Diver and tech instructor I have never aborted a dive for any reason ever..... so dive aborted at 2m on the first proper dive of the trip!

Unfortunately the sinus issues was more serious than I gave it credit for and as soon as I descended the initial pressure reacted on a newly installed crown in my mouth.. the pain was so bad it was if someone was pulling my tooth out! Nothing I could do would allow me to get past 2m, so dive aborted..... cursing and swearing at the thought the Indonesian dentist had created the issue I then started to think that a denture problem would more likely occur on way up as a bubble would increase not on way down.... so why the pain?.... the next few dives followed the same course but I found a solution that if I kept pressure in my nose I could get down.... as soon as I would surface from a dive I had blood streaming from my nose, but it was a play off.... over next few days all pain and blood ceased and the cause all along was congestion and sinus! So the learning opportunity here is to not dive when blocked or to not fly so much as it’s from this I got my problem.

The diving after was ok, for me I have been spoilt with the places I have been and that’s something I need to accept. We saw mantas, sharks all the normal gang. Currents were ok, except the expected rough ride of couldron and shot gun which was good fun. Duncan did well with his diving and Ima the cruise director was excellent, patient and accommodating with him! Even a short compression dive for Duncan!

Hiked up a mountain on Duncan’s birthday and the group serenaded him at the top, visited the dragons which was good to see! But the one thing I will take from the trip was the village visit. We rocked up to this remote island and village and I was taken aback by the plastic and garbage pollution, I don’t have words and only some photos to try and show this.... these people were just living around plastic everywhere.... let’s be Frank here, I would say 75% was washed up from the sea but the rest was local village garbage just thrown to the ground.... more needs to be done with teaching, education and government bans on single use plastics!

Anyway staying around the village and playing hide and seek with the kids was lovely, they are not corrupt with iPhones and computer games, they are outside playing, smiling and albeit in poverty there was a genuine happiness and contentment here.

We played soccer on the beach with the kids who found it good fun to have these few older white men playing with them, the shy ones hiding around the corners peering around when they think it’s safe, but give a kid a ball and they all come together! Before the soccer I tried to get a photo with them all, but they ran off shy and not sure, after the soccer the picture came and I will let you judge the outcome yourself. a truly humbling experience.

A final night on the boat and farewells to everyone including Duncan, who’s path I hope will cross mine again someday, I hope he gets that book started because it’s a life of adventure, photography, conservation and action! All I will say Duncan if you ever read this.... the devil ray is your spiritual guide! You will know what I mean.

So trip over, and early morning transfer to Maumere and flight to Labuan Bajo! Mark for the time being is dived and travelled out, I need to regroup and take a break and focus on the business at home for a while, until it’s time to return and focus on tech and photography diving.

Sorong & Raja Ampat (Papua)

After a detour via Hong Kong and arriving in Jakarta for my connecting flight I was left in amazement of how stupid things can be, so picture 3 large heavy cases full of diving equipment and camera gear and 2 hand luggage, arriving at Terminal 3 I needed to get to Terminal 2 for my connection to Sorong, I follow signs for the sky train but still could not find a way up to the skytrain which was on other side of road but had a bridge, after walking up and down wondering if dementia had set in, I then ask an armed policeman who gestures underneath, so off I go, but there is no underneath!!.... eventually it was clear they designed the station but had not finished the bridge which was in disrepair, but! And the but.... some clever prick thought it’s a good idea to put direction signs up even though no access.... relief it’s not dementia, so now I’m crossing the road with my loaded trolley with a pissed squeaky wheel..... so now I get to the bottom floor of the skytrain and met by a guard who tells me no trolleys allowed, so they designed the station, could not finish the bridge link and have not installed an elevator.... so now it’s me my luggage and 2 escalators.....as I arrived in terminal 2 I have to unload all luggage to be scanned, I look and there are 2 airport designated helpers leaning against a post and chatting, after intensively staring at there airport helper badge whilst struggling with luggage I couldn’t help to murmur airport tosser as I walked past with sweat pouring off me..... check in done, all set and ready for the overnight flight to Sorong.

Arrived at 0630 and got all my bags and now it’s time to pick the taxi..... what one is gonna try and rip me off..... I take my chance on one and he tells me 100k IDR so off we go on our 7 minute journey, after arriving at hotel and opening my wallet to get the money the taxi driver checks out my wad and decides price has gone up to 150k IDR...... right lad, I’m tired and annoyed so I let him have it..... told him to stop his bollocks and stop thinking I’m an idiot and so on.... I pay my 100k IDR and get his number.... I’m guessing if I go on a day tour this guy will now know I’m no mug...

Check in to Swiss bell hotel.... it’s pretty ok considering the area, rooms clean and comfortable..... couple of days to catch up on the sleep.

My room overlooked a small village area with clear poverty, if I stood on balcony all the kids would gather below and point and wave and just be cute, I’m sure in Indonesian they are saying look at that white, bald Buddha looking guy..... everywhere I went I seemed to get the same reaction.

I did go on my own private tour and went and saw the birds of paradise which are endemic to this area, a deserted Buddha temple which was just beautiful with hundreds of birds nesting in the eaves, I had quite a bit of time at the temple thinking and reflecting on life, I felt a connection and a feeling that everything will be ok. Then I went to a small beach and village but sadly the plastic which we keep throwing in the ocean had littered the beach.

So it’s now the 7th, time to get on the Damai II liveaboard for 10 days exploring Misool and the North. 10 days total isolation from the outside world with nature and people with same interest, it’s been 11 years in the planning and completes my first ever bucket list.

The boat is completely wooden and Indonesian style, very large at over 40m and very wide with a crew of 15. 

My room is lovely and provides all the space I need and I have a double and single bed. The eating area and lounge are very comfortable.They even have a dedicated camera room which is well set out. So I’m unpacked and ready to go.

The diving here was first class, the bio diversity was amazing and variation between dives was welcoming, but, and there is a but.... almost every dive had current ranging from medium to strong, I understand you need current to bring in the big stuff but for a photographer it makes every dive hard going, I felt beaten up after every dive which lasted anywhere between 60 to 80 minutes, even the night dives had current. My dive pointer has a 45 degree bend in it as it needed to act as a reef hook on a number of occasions, without a camera it’s great but with a camera it took everything I had to achieve the shots I managed to get and sometimes with limited visibility. I understand why this place is so high on peoples bucket lists but not for the inexperienced. What was pleasing to see was distinct absence of plastic and garbage in this protected area of Raja Ampat and on most of my 33 dives.

The highlight of my dives here was an interaction with an oceanic manta at least 7m wide who stayed with me and was intrigued by my bubbles and camera and as I stared into his jet black eye I could feel him looking right back..... at this point I’m not too macho to admit I was in tears underwater.... to see truly how beautiful, knowing and majestic this intelligent creature was and how as a race we are killing these everyday...... please world...... stop this!! 

Other dives had the wobblegong shark chilling out in huge table and cabbage corals, octopus and one quick sighting of a blue ringed octopus, schools of jacks, fusiliers, bump head parrot fish and many more..... these dives favour wide angle photography rather than macro.

The crew on the boat were hard working, professional, helpful, detail oriented and above all had great sense of humour, being greeted back on the boat with a song and a band made up of everyday objects.... Eki your my number 1. Eki was the steward, masseuse, and entertainment he’s been here 10 years and everyday you see him he’s positive smiling and just a top guy.... thanks for the sneaky packet of candy ;-) 

The guides Yanto and Ryan were both funny guys and great guides doing there best to find the weird and the wonderful for us all.

The catering team and food was superb, Putra your a gem and looked after everyone’s demands, and thanks for the oatmeal everyday.... was the best!

Cruise director Mika and assistants Zi and Angela were quite new but they still did an amazing job, Angela I still don’t know what you do but appreciated the colourful outfits and of course the minion diving cap..... brilliant.

To all the guests, I really thoroughly enjoyed spending time with all of you! Jon, give up the GoPro and get back to the real photography, Miriam get a small camera for your fish ID don’t forget magic eraser for the slate!, Ben keep shooting and don’t give up on macro, enjoy Lembeh and change strobes to Inon! You were lucky this time, Duncan keep travelling and enjoying life and taking lots of photos, you truly are a world traveller and pioneer and will probably be the only person I will ever meet who travels with his own boat packed on his back, get that book started! other Duncan and Sarah you are a lovely couple with a passion for diving, was great hearing about your travel experiences, Duncan do your own logs ;-) Sarah you were super fit to tackle those stairs with the tenacity and speed the rest of us lacked :-), Eduardo, didn’t speak much but great photo presentation, Angela good luck with your diving career and conservation, the true coral guardian except when your using my camera ;-)..... shush.... Zi and Mika, good luck too with your work in Raja Ampat.

All in all I give this trip a strong 9/10 the only drop was the current, but I truly loved every minute and these 10 days isolation came at right time for me to think about my life...thank you diving, thank you Manta, thank you Raja Ampat and thank you to all the staff and crew of Damai II

Bali & Tec Diving

So here I am back in Bali….but this time its not a stop off its to dive! I had decided back early on my trip that I wanted to learn to Tec Dive, but like Marks normal fashion I can’t just settle to do a Tec Dive I want to do everything…..so I initially signed up to do all my Tec training with Bali Scuba including my Tec Instructor training. I had to work my way through 3 courses with the Tec that was Tec 40, 45 & 50…. after completing the self study and knowledge reviews it really opened my eyes on what I was about to embark on…..So much so that I decided that I was not physically ready to expose my body to the demands of Tec Diving, after discussing this with Knut and Lisa at Bali Scuba decided that I would try the Tec 40 and see how I feel. I was overwhelmed with the learning at first, very different to the relaxed PADI courses I was accustomed too, this was serious shit and I understand why now…. if you have a problem down there you need to deal with it down there, none of this coming to the surface and CESA’s….. this has opened my eyes to a new way of diving. I was very blessed to of found Bali Scuba who have been excellent and Knut my instructor (course director). I managed to get through the theory and the exams and the train dives, the set up is completely different and getting used to all that took a while but slowly I was understanding why people do this, it bought back an excitement and adrenaline rush. I managed to get through the dives and then decided I would do my Tec 45, so again I was into the thick of it with theory, exams and skills and got passed that, I also decided to take my sidemount course and invested in some new gear, it was good to learn this and feel different way to dive. I had some great dives with Bali Scuba and especially with the Mantas and manta point. I didn’t have enough time to complete my Tec 50 or instructor part but I have decided to return in November to finish ups the Tec 50, take my Tec Instructor part and also the course for Staff Instructor. Great experience with Bali Scuba, they will be the only dive school I will dive with whilst on Bali, run very professionally and really good people just happy to help. See ya Bali, back in a few months to finish what we started….

Lembeh - Muck & Critters.....

So I left Thailand, was a bit surreal being back on Koh Tao and visiting Crystal Dive where it had all begun some 12 years ago, The part that saddened me was not leaving Koh Tao but the way I had been dealt with at Crystal Dive, I had been a customer for so long doing my zero to hero and so many specialities that going back was showing my loyalty, I was treated like a nothing and everything I wanted to do seemed like a hassle for the kids running the place. Since I did my training there I have free dives for life, sadly Crystal I would prefer not to dive at all.

So Thailand was now in my rear view mirror and the place known as “The land of smiles” ending up being the land of ”Thank god i’m leaving” and its back for a quick stop in Bali before my 2 flights to Jakarta and then Manado. I got to Jakarta quite late and had to really run for the gate, I felt like a bag man running through the terminal with bags and cameras hanging off me. I get to the gate just as they were boarding, I took a glimpse out the window at the plane and was immediately stopped in my tracks…..it was a complete vintage…now i’m trying to work out if the vintage look was done intentionally like some of the bigger airlines to commemorate certain things, or was this really a rust bucket….as I entered the plane it was clear it really was a vintage…oh my here we go…. To be fair the flight was really good and service was great, well done Garuda Air, but I would suggest a quick trip to the paint shop.

Landing in Manado was a bit like landing in a remote village where they have never seen large white bald man…..instantly the looks and the curiosity as I hang around arrivals wondering if my bags will make it.

Once out the airport, I had to then stare down the taxi drivers trying to work out what one won’t drive to the jungle and shoot me and then gives my clothes to the village…. I found one slightly built guy who I thought I could take if things got to it, the guy ended up being so sweet and took all my bags and somehow managed to get them all in the taxi.

So, I had not yet realized that Google have an audio translation app, that you speak into and it converts to any language you want……little did I know that the taxi driver has spent a week downloading this app……so here I am having a conversation with his phone and trying to work out the translation from google, to be fair we had a good chat and he showed me things on the way to the hotel…..at one point I was wondering if it might of been less painful to of been taken to the jungle and shot.

Hotel stay was ok and non eventful and I was picked up next day by Lembeh Resort for the 2 hour drive to the boat, Im still curious about this muck as the place looks lovely.

Once on the resort I was greeted by Morton, a danish national who escorted me to my room, I was taken to a newly built bungalow and I was immediately impressed with the professionalism of this place. I was then taken to the dive part of the resort called Critters@Lembeh and met with Bridget who was the manager. I watched a short video on dive techniques and was given an orientation, I was immediately at ease and looking forward to diving. I heard you could hire a private guide, little did I know that I could hire a private boat too so thats what I did. I had the boat and my own guide for 8 days, no waiting for anyone and being able to spend time on each subject underwater was just the best. Sandro was my guide and he was excellent, I cannot remember the boat crews name but they were all very attentive and looked after me well.

The diving, well to this day is still my most favourite place, the word muck soon became apparent was a branding and was indeed just black sand and silt, but not muck….of course there was some garbage in there but all what we have put in there as humans, so really it was a bit like swimming in our own shit, but i’m not referring to feces. The diving was amazing in every way, seeing alien like creatures using our garbage as a way too live and also the variation of species on every dive… I was lucky enough at the end to of photographed 8 different species of octopus and lucky for me 2 were quite rare in the blue ringed octopus and the Manoti octopus. I was fortunate enough to see a bobbit worm take its prey and just so many things, the funniest without a doubt was the coconut octopus….I have no words to describe how funny the interaction was. Every single dive was an experience and I was very sad to leave this place. The resort was of the highest grade, the dive operation was probably the best I have dived with and the diving itself for me so far is unparalleled. To explain the level of service I received…I was stupid enough to of left my holder for my diopter in Bali, I went to the photography hut to see if I could loan one, and what did they do? they said no problem mark give me an hour and I will print you one using our new 3D printer…im here in the arse end of nowhere and im having a diopter holder printed….it worked perfectly and i’m grateful for this. If I could give this place 6 stars I would….not a bad word I could of said except when I had to say goodbye..,…but as Arnie said… I’ll be back!!

During the evenings after dinner I had to chose between my knowledge reviews for my upcoming Tec Dive course in Bali or sifting through hundreds of photos from the days dive…. the photography won and I really was back in the old days of not doing my homework and the Tec learning was really catching up on me. So as I planned my departure I managed to get one last dive in and after I left with everything still soaking. I got off the dive boat and packed my stuff right there and then and on the boat to the mainland and back to the hotel before my flight to Bali the next day. In between all this I had managed to put a hole in my Halcyon BCD…..not sure they can 3d print a new Halcyon BCD. So its goodbye Lembeh and hello Bali.

Thailand - Koh Samui & Koh Tao

So leaving Perta Galera far behind its off to my old stomping ground of Thailand and the islands of Koh Samui and Koh Tao.

After a comfortable flight on the first ever Airbus type aircraft to fly from manilla to Bangkok I arrive to the storm of all storms which was so bad they took 2 hours to unload the luggage, so waiting in the luggage hall remembering the many times I have passed through, finally I get my bags only to find the previously  booked hotel car didn't arrive so I make my own way to the hotel, finally I get to my hotel and into a nice round bed, yes a round bed. A few days to kill before my son and Sarah arrive, shopping trips to the paragon and pantip plaza brings back some fond memories. Bangkok has become modern now, more than I could imagine and more expensive and McDonald's everywhere. 

I met my son in Koh Samui for his 21st Birthday, Due to time restrictions it was decided the discover scuba would be best option and we book with discovery divers who will make a 2 dive trip to koh tao. The speedboat ride was a trip from hell, the 2 hour trip there took longer as a Chinese lady had a panic attack half way into journey and my Chinese is not great but I think I translated "get me the fuck off this boat" and talking to her husband "I fucking hate you"

Couple of quick dives at Mango Bay and Aow Leuk and they now have a diving experience..... It's back to Samui with the fury of the monsoon downpour. Diving complete. T shirt aquired job done.
I will soon return to Koh Tao to complete a course in a few days...

Back to koh tao for a quick 5 day visit and a self relient course, checking into the koh tao regal was a mistake, what I remember being nice and modern was falling apart and I guess that's what happens when you have it built by Burmese cowboys, no hot water and a shower you need a ladder to get into and then a seat to fit under. On to the self reliant course and whatever they can throw at me.

The classroom work was quick and after planning the dive it was time to do the 3 dives, after being put through what was supposed to be stressful situations which I loved, the course was complete, although I have dived many times alone I now have the certification.

It was time to say goodbye to koh tao and I feel this may be my final goodbye to a place I hold dear to me as it was my sanctuary when every other part of my life was falling apart some 12 years ago. If I return it will be at Tanote Bay and for relaxation only. Quick visits to the places I used to visit and it's off on the lomprayah ferry which now has a luggage allowance.... Jeez

A bus trip back to Bangkok, 12 long hours, it was time for a hot shower and bed, then it's off back to Bali and then Manado via Jakarta to dive in shit and garbage which is called muck diving. 

Puerta Galera - Oriental Mindoro

So leaving the Islands of Palau behind was quite sad, something I had wanted to do for so long was finally over, I will return one day. So it’s off to familiar surroundings at Puerta Galera, via Manila.

I have been to Mindoro many times about 8-10 years ago, I used to dive with “Divers Cafe” with Herman’s team but sadly they are no longer in operation. So I went to “Action Divers” and accommodation with “Out Of The Blue” all booked on line and I have to say all the communication with Andy at Action Divers was great!

I opted for the private transfer and set off for my 3 hour van journey and then the boat. I arrived in Puerta Galera and it was raining hard, the tide was out and the boat could not get anywhere near the shore, so we opt for this platform.... my private boat reached the platform the same time as a boat full of very well dressed elderly Chinese..... so I find myself in the middle of the sea on a platform surrounded by Chinese, Gucci and Prada! So we now have to get on an unmanned boat connected to shore via rope.... we made it 10 meters and then we bottomed out! This was time for me to say good by and get wet whilst the Chinese took off there shoes and socks!

Arriving at hotel was great! Nice reception, great resort and beautiful large rooms, the steps are a pain but good for my cardio workouts everyday.

Next day I met Andy and Hew and these guys are so friendly, easy going and laid back, but without lacking any professionalism! The dive shop was organized and presented amazingly well, probably the best I have seen.

The diving has not disappointed either, most sites are less than 10 minutes away and provide plenty macro opportunities, I was lucky to see and photograph a Jaw Fish with eggs. Andy was constantly showing me new stuff whilst giving me space with my camera to explore on my own as long as I deploy safety sausage.

Waters were a bit choppy but warm, even an earthquake during our dive didn’t ruin anything except a bit of bass on the ears!

I was unfortunate enough to find something underwater that I hope I never find again! Some sick lowlife had attached a rock to a dock and thrown it in, you can only imaging how that was! But I will not let the actions of sick people to ruin this. But RIP poor dog! I hope your murderer meets karma!

So a few more dives let here and the dive gear will go away for a few weeks until I see my Son in Thailand for his DSD.

Palau

Palau - Koror

After being delayed I finally touched down in Koror at 3am in the morning. It’s raining and dark but the people seem really friendly. I had my bags and was out of the airport in 10 mins, I was greeted by Raymond my driver who swiftly took me too the Palau Hotel.

Check In  was swift until I was given the key to room 411, that’s great but then I found out no elevator so I had to drag 60kgs of luggage up 4 flights of stairs! 

The hotel was boutique style and very friendly and clean. This will be my home for 2 nights.

Aggressor, Palau 

I wasn’t impressed with the service after the Galapagos Aggressor, so I was hoping things would get better, bearing in mind I stepped off the Pelagian 2 weeks ago, the pick up didn’t happen and no responses to emails, so I made my way down to the drop off, good job Raymond knew as Aggressor staff didn’t respond to 2 emails I sent. We finally get to the boat, what impressed me was the skiff (small boat) is lifted out of the water with us in it and we just step on to the boat. The boat seemed old and the rooms are dated and old too, they are acceptable but I was hoping for better. I’m just thankful I’m not sharing with someone as that would of been interesting.

We go through what seems to be the longest dive/boat briefing in history and finally its dinner time. There are 17 divers on this boat. 4 from Korea, 2 from Austria, 3 from Netherlands, 2 Canadians, 2 Germans and 4 from America. Everyone seems nice and friendly and should be a good week!

The first 2 dives were on wrecks and sadly these have been the worst 2 dives of my entire trip so far, poor visibility and not much life.... I’m hoping the 3rd dive gets better..... and it does, lovely blue sea, sandy bottom and nice sea life. Now I feel I’m in Palau. The skiff ride through the Rock Islands was a true experience.

So it’s on to the 4th dive, this is a hook in dive and everyone is anxious to see the sharks, off we go and as we arrive I see that no one had put my camera on the boat! And this has my dive computer on it. I’m really pissed off because I followed what I was told in the briefing, only staff can take the camera on and off,  and the camera’s  that are going should be placed in the rinse tank.... I did my part! So sadly I was not able to dive Ulong Channel. What has annoyed me more is none of the staff really gave a shit or even apologized and tried to say I had done things  wrong. Unfortunately the Aggressor showing proof of over promising and under delivering....what’s there motto? Eat, Sleep, Dive??? They are supposed to take care of everything? Maybe they should take note of how the Pelagian does things as it takes more than warm towels and warm filtered water. Hopefully things will get better.

In all fairness Jim the captain came and apologized and didn’t forget any other time. The cruise director and so called photo pro knew what had happened and said nothing and just jumped in, every man for himself.

The diving picked up and there was some lovely dives, we managed to see sharks, mantas and lots of turtles. This is not the best place I have dived for sharks but the warm sea, clear blue visibility gave this something extra.

The food was average compared to other liveaboards and the horrid warm water just turns my stomach every time they pass you your bottle.

I have to say it was a good all round experience, personally I don’t think the staff care for people serious about photography as it seems to be an effort with my camera, 3 times passed to me with the large very buoyant cap still on, and when back in the boat no one places cap back on and I cannot get to it to do myself.

Aggressor says, the “Ultimate Liveaboard” I would say the acceptable but expensive for what you get liveaboard. The were quick to mention about tips, they didn’t forget that,  like they did my camera, maybe I will forget to tip.... oh wait just remembered I was charged full rate double concession to have a room on my own.... there is your tip aggressor staff.

It was great diving with all the other guests it was a good group! Except the Korean music, if I hear a grease theme song again.....

After the diving I stayed on land for a few days at a beautiful resort called Palau Pacific Resort, The rooms were lovely, a 24 hour gift shop and the best snorkelling around, Yes... I snorkelled and saw the only Crocodile Fish on the whole trip!

Bucket list # 1 complete! 

Next stop Philippines and to Pueto Galera. 

Malapascua - The Threshers

So my first morning in Malapascua, I wasn’t able to see too much when I arrived as was dark, but this morning I’m pleasantly surprised. The location of the Exotic Resort is perfect, right on the beach and has a number of boats. The staff are quick to help and assist and I’m finally booked to do my 15 dives plus the PADI Thresher Shark Speciality where I will learn about the sharks in more detail.

The diving here was very good, it had recently been hit with some bad weather so the conditions were choppy and the visibility not too good, but this did not take away from the diving. Lacking in fish but not in critters! In my first dive we spotted numerous sea horses and cuttle fish. The night dives here were amazing, every 15 seconds the dive guide keen to point out another photo opportunity. I have to say that night dive ranks very high for me.

4am, yes 4am and it’s time to get ready for my long awaited thresher shark dive! Camera prepped the night before and I’m rating to go! 430am at dive school and a quick check of the Nitrox and off we go to Monad Shoal. This is apparently the only place you can dive with these amazing sharks on a regular basis as this has become an important cleaning station for them. Down we go, I’m so excited to hopefully see one of these sharks as it’s been a dream of mine for over 10 years, the visibility not great and the use of strobes rightly prohibited as to not scare the sharks makes it tough to get a good picture. I always said the photo that enters my memory is the most important and the camera only secondary. After about 15 minutes out of the murky green water here she comes, slowly and gradually gliding through the water using that beautiful long tail..... I have finally dived with thresher sharks :-)

I managed to get up every morning to have an encounter with these beautiful fish, the sunrise was truly amazing too! 

As humans we need to be careful of our seas and although I truly loved seeing these creatures I was shocked to find nearly 10 boats on that dive site with many inexperienced divers who without training and knowledge damage much of the viewing area. I’m my personal opinion it should be a privilege to dive with creatures like this and not a right and if you are not properly skilled then think about what negative effect you can have on the reef.

Thanks to Chen, Troy and all the dive masters and boat boys for a great time, Exotic Dive Resort were the first pioneers to find these sharks and set up a dive facility on Malapascua, I hope Troy and Chen achieve there vision going forward for the dive facility.No thanks to the crazy van driver who took me back to airport! Never again! 

Palau.... here I come :-)

Malapascua - Finally...

So next stop is Malapascua, this is a place I have wanted to visit for over 10 years, it was one of 2 places left on my original bucket list with the other being Palau which I will dive at next week.

Leaving the comforts of the Makati Shangri La behind, off I set feeling this may be the most challenging part of my adventure, not for the travel or 5 hour van ride on roads that can only be classed as mud with holes in, there was a bus called the rough rider so I think my point was made, anyway it wasn’t for any of these reasons it was how to get 60kg of checked luggage, and 25kg of hand luggage onto a budget airline called Cebu pacific who generously give you only 20kgs checked and 7kgs carry on.....after paying out $200 excess I smugly walk away thinking huh....didn’t notice my carry on did ya.....as I approach the departure security check, with there bright yellow T-shirts making them look like oversized toxic canaries..stand the Cebu pacific carry on police, armed with a luggage scale and a size chart, I have been busted.....I have slight understanding now when I watch “Border Security Colombia” and the smugglers get caught, all I can let out is, oh you got me, and I think I’m over the limit. The lady looked and I explained what was in the bags and how I had just sold my soul to raise money for my checked luggage, with a slight smile and pity, she lets me through!

So Cebu Pacific, I have done budget before but this is another level, after telling us to board at the wrong gate after a 2 hour delay there is a stampede of people heading towards the new gate to board the plane I walked past 2 hours ago, I can’t help suggest that the plane was there all along and the staff didn’t notice! We finally get on and I’m told I have a salty egg chicken sandwich for my meal.....anyway after taxing for 30 minutes the pilot then says he has gone the wrong way and we will be taking off in the other direction, after the best 1 point turn ever we are now thankfully facing the right way, I thought it was just Filipino taxi drivers that got lost.

After 20 minutes in the air one of the crew realize they didn’t do a safety briefing or life jacket demonstration. Thankfully we made in and I land in Cebu.

The Exotic Resort rep was there waiting, and within 5 minutes a van arrives and I’m bundled into this van with 2 blokes who cannot speak English. One part of my travel plan I skipped was the journey details from Cebu to Malapascua, after trying my best Tagalog I’m told journey to boat will be 5 hours! It was not the greatest experience of my life and trying to explain with words and actions I’m finally let out to have a wee up a tree. We arrive at this landing zone and it’s pitch black but lurking in there is my private boat and crew...of we sail heading towards the island and thresher sharks.....I walk the plank onto the sand and I’m greeted by a charming young lady who gives me a flowery necklace, welcome to Malapascua Sir......the place is stunning!

The Pelagian

Hats off to the marketing team at Wakatobi! last year during my resort stay, on the last day they give guests who are leaving the chance to walk around the Pelagian, before the next lucky group arrive, I was mesmerized by the quality of this boat and I knew one day I would be on it! So as I pack up my things from the resort and prepare for my voyage through the Atolls and remote islands, I'm not sad to close the door on my palm bungalow.

A couple of days previous to departure I was informed there would only be 3 guests on board for the week, a boat this size and only 3 divers! how lucky. Then my thoughts turned to "who are the other 2" where are they from? will they be pro Brexit or anti Brexit..... to my delight I spent a week onboard with Andrea and Mikele, could not wished to be in better company. I will fondly remember the lunch and dinner chats and the great boiled egg cook off! I will miss Mikele's shirts and his successful attempt at being a human nudibranch! I miss you guys and I hope we meet again.

The experience of the Pelagian was superb, Clare and Rizal were excellent! due to bad weather and winds we could not do the muck dive and subsequently missed out on the Mandarin fish, but I appreciate Mikele's shirt as at times I thought they were close!

Talks or Pirates, Mikele struggling to find the boat where he head butted it full on, being called a whale as I stretched across 3 seats, I was truly around nice people. I will treasure my Swiss army knife and my first canvas of Mikele's Mount will be on its way soon.

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Wakatobi Summary - Can I Yodel......?

My last couple of weeks diving at Wakatobi were just beautiful, During my stay I met with some wonderful people and its true what they say about divers! I spent over a week with my boat buddies Laurie, Jerry, Kim & Miguel, even though we didn't dive together our pre and post dive chats were great. The last week I was fortunate enough to meet a lovely family from Australia, Mum and Dad, Amanda and Anthony and their 3 charming young ladies Emily, Sarah and Erin. It was lovely to interact with the girls and listen to their dive and snorkelling adventures, lovely, friendly, polite young ladies! The after dinner conversation with Sarah will never be matched, unfortunately I cannot yodel but a guy I met a week later could! Thanks to Emily for my lovely turtle pictures, I enjoyed our turtle chats, and for Erin I hope you go on to drive those tanks, but first learn how to unlock washroom doors :-) Thanks for a great time, I will remember the pointers and the southern cross Anthony,

Wakatobi May 15th 2018 - I'm 43 today

Waking up on my birthday and being somewhere like Wakatobi made the long journey worthwhile, not only does this place have amazing diving, the attention to detail from all land staff both dive instructors and the local workers is second to none. After receiving lovely birthday messages its off to the dive shop to meet Marco and start my photography course in wide angle techniques. After 2 beautiful dives I felt blessed to be in this privileged position and also reminded myself that 2 years to the day I was doing the exact same thing in the Galapagos, diving has really brightened my life and taken me to some beautiful places and met wonderful people. After arriving back to my bungalow I'm greeted by a towel sculpture and "happy birthday mark" inscribed in flowers. I'm then greeted with a card for a spa visit, the day just can't get any better as I'm truly touched by kindness, and the special people in my life who can't be with me have managed to make me feel special. Marco and Shoku joined me for dinner and a nice bottle of red, after exchanging many dive stories I'm then confronted with a beautiful birthday cake, which was arranged by my son. The day ends perfectly and the sun sets on yet another birthday. Its now time to live again and ensure that I have a story to tell every year on my birthday.

Wakatobi May 14th 2018

So its time to leave Bali and my lovely under utilized beach front suite with private pool, and off I go to the airport. Travelling light was always my intention, but when the hotel concierge in his broken english asked if the rest of the family will be getting in the same taxi, I had to politely explain I am a lone complicated traveller, he looks at the 4 loaded bags and gives a shrug of the shoulders. Arriving at the airport there is no one to greet and help me, my excitement to leave Bali had got the better of me and I arrive way too early. After being refused entry to the airport for not having a ticket, I used my limited to non-existent Indonesian language and frantic hand gestures to explain I don't need one as I'm going to Wakatobi......ticket sir.... oh dear its going to be tough...after demonstrating a scuba diver in action they now seem to understand and within minutes a Sinbad looking guy with a funny hat hands me a ticket. Bags are gone (well 2 of them) and its pass security and into the retail section of the airport. After ordering an orange juice I was instead given dragon fruit juice, its going to be a fibre day! the 2 hour 30 minute flight was uneventful, I sat next to a box of food supplies destined to Wakatobi, the only thing missing was a chicken in a cage and a. goat tied up to one of the arm rests. After disembarking the plane, and trying not to look too smug at the crowd of guests waiting to leave, its into the car for a short ride and then onto the boat. After arriving in Wakatobi I'm escorted to my bungalow B22 through the coral sand paths and lush greenery.....I have finally arrived, I am home!

The adventure begins....

May 10th, 2018

As I boarded my 3;50am flight bound to Hong Kong, I was leaving Vancouver behind for 3 months, after just returning from Las Vegas with the team and barely surving that, this 3 month “get well” trip should be a walk in the park, or a dive with mantas!

The upcoming trip will take in Hong Kong, Bali, Wakatobi, Manila, Cebu, Malapasque, Palau, Mindoro and Thailand.

Cathy Pacific really deserve praise for there exceptional customer service and quality of service, my business class pod was a site for tired eyes! The flight went quickly as I slept all the way through.

After a quick stop in Hong Kong, which subsequently pulled me into the tech savvy stores at the airport, I left Hong Kong with a GoPro fusion and another GoPro 6, with the new Sony A7 Riii camera to try out, the drone and now the 2 GoPro cameras I well and truly equipped to record my adventure.

Arriving in Bali, the heat hit me instantly and the evidence of an overweight, unfit, middle aged man going through a midlife crisis was evident and sweat appeared profusely!

After trying 5 bank cards the ATM at airport begrudgingly gave me enough for a taxi to the hotel, with the hotel being 8km away the 6 hour taxi ride quickly reminded me why I wasn’t a fan of the Bali transport system.

After arriving at Anvaya beach resort and a swift check in, it was onto the golf cart to find my private pooled beach front hotel room, and boy, I was not disappointed! This will be home until May 14th when it’s off to Wakatobi 

Wakatobi

In November 2017 I visited the Wakatobi dive resort. This was my first time diving in Indonesia so I was very much excited to see what the waters of South East Sulawesi had to offer.

After arriving in Bali from Hong Kong I was greeted by one of the Wakatobi dive staff, I wasn't flying back out until the following day so I was nicely surprised to have someone waiting for me.

The large pelican case was an interest to the Indonesian customs, but with British charm I was through and on my way to the hotel airport for 1 night.

Next morning, back to the airport, arriving by taxi with pelican case, diving bag, clothes case and the hand luggage, I was quickly set upon by the over eager airport porters....after politely explaining that I can manage, and being insistant that I'm ok (really didn't have local money for tip) I still battled with my bags and it turned into a tug of war, only to be settled by a member of the Wakatobi dive team to explain to me that, I was not to worry it was all part of the service I had paid for...I quickly let my bags go and enjoyed the lighter walk to the check in gate.

The check in gate was just the best, they put plastic re-usable tags on my bags (eco friendly) and that was it....not to be seen until they appear in my bungalow! 

After smuggly approaching security I was quickly pulled back to be told that my tripod could not go through as hand luggage, after explaining that it has travelled from Vancouver, through Hong Kong and had no security issues why now flying to a dot of an island was this a risk......sorry sir, cannot...... so back out of security to check my tripod in.....smug? not anymore...

Walking through departure lounge to see Beard Papa's thats breakfast settled....sorry sir you have VIP breakfast waiting in the private lounge....chewing on some wet toast and stale muffins feeling so honoured to have this private service...whilst secretly dreaming of a vanilla filled puff pastry.....nope I can't let this opportunity go..slipped out the lounge and got my puff....walking back I noticed some faces from the lounge walking in opposite direction, they had called boarding......after joining the other 12-14 guests we went through a gate labelled for somewhere completely different.....don't worry and a smile from the ground staff, we have this all in hand! 

The flight was 2 hours 30 mins, the excitement building as the plane took off heading towards Wakatobi Dive Resort.... yes! the air strip is only for the dive resort as nothing else there! 

After seeing the remote islands and reefs from the air it was time to land, as the plane banked hard to the left it was a steep dive into the air field.... 

After getting off the plane, the welcoming was so nice and I was handed the tripod right away....now just hoping all the other gear has made it too. The staff were there to whisk me away to a boat, the resort is on another island.... so after getting to the boat, which was nicely positioned between two half sunk boats we leave the dock..... after 30 mins we arrive at what I can only describe as the most beautiful dive resort in the world! the reef was stunning, the turquoise waters, with the deep blue was spectacular!

After getting off the boat I was taken directly to my beach/jungle bungalow...no real check in procedures and just coral sand paths......I have finally arrived and so did all my bags an hour later.

to be continued.......

The beach front bungalow was just the perfect accommodation, all made from wood and very stylish. Noticing the bed had a huge net around it, I then realized the chances of not being visited by the jungle mafia that night was slim!

I opted out of the introductory house reef dive that afternoon, I'm not one to be rushed and not without checking all my gear! Instead I checked out the dedicated camera room at the dive centre. Well lit and set as same temp as the sea this was the perfect room to claim my spot and to start prepping the camera.

After getting a good nights sleep I was up at 5am taking in the sunrise, a little anxious about the diving and what to expect! after a quick breakfast in the lovely, well run restaurant (they have a trait of remembering everyones name, without mistake) it was off to the dive centre. 

To my delight all my gear had been taken to the boat (Wakatobi 4 was to be my vessel for the duration of my stay and 8 was my number) and was already set up on my tank of nitrox which I analyzed the day before. I even had my camera taken onto the boat for me by the incredible boat boys! 

Off we go for dive number 1, as the boat approaches the dive site and after a quick briefing the boat boys have you tank in hand ready to lift onto you.....they made it incredibly easy! now it was time to get down to business! splash.....here we go!

My first site of the reef below left me speechless (is that possible underwater) it was truly one of gods wonders, sea life everywhere, crystal waters and at 30 degrees.....had I died and gone to diving nirvana? Please look at Wakatobi photos for the sea life!

After the 70 minutes were up, it was off to the surface......and then the boat would come to us, so no long surface swims....after getting onto the boat, the boat boys remove your gear and pass you a warm towel and a hot chocolate......before I could sit down the boat boys had switched tanks with my gear, packed all my stuff away under the bench and I'm ready for dive number 2 (after the hours surface interval).

The rest of my trip continued like this and I was truly spoilt, at the end of your dives all your gear is washed and sent to your bungalow ready to pack!

I have nothing but amazing things to say about Wakatobi, the attention to detail is impressive thats not just the diving it was everything, from the airport pick up, waiters, dive crew...everyone! all this from a dive resort who had a huge awareness of being eco friendly........I have to say in my humble opinion Wakatobi have got things really right!

as I approached the resort....

Bahamas

20th July - Bahamas Nassau